Six mapped-out routes through the city, all free and suitable on foot or by bike: three that follow the building of the canal ring and three that trace the life of a single Amsterdammer.
Which route suits you
The choice comes down mainly to how much time you have and where your interest lies.
Short on time: the canal routes are short and compact, two to three kilometres each, and stay entirely within the centre.
A full day: the themed routes cross several districts and show you parts of Amsterdam where tourists rarely go.
If you like architecture: start with the canal routes, which are arranged by century and teach you how to read a façade.
If you like stories: choose a themed route. You then stand on the spot where something actually happened, which lands far harder than a plaque ever could.
With children: keep it short with a single canal route, or do a themed route by bike so the distances stop mattering.
Three routes along the canals
The canal ring was not built all at once but in phases, and that sequence is written into the architecture. These three routes follow that chronology.
Old centre route (1275 to 1600): the medieval heart of the city, with narrow cobbled alleys, sixteenth-century wooden houses, the narrowest house in Europe and the Gothic Oude Kerk of 1306. Ten stops over around 3 km.
Western canal ring route (1600 to 1660): the first stretch of the canal ring, along the Herengracht, the Keizersgracht and the Prinsengracht. An open-air course in gable architecture, taking in the oldest stepped gable and the narrowest façade in the city. Ten stops over around 3 km.
Southern canal ring route (1660 to 1700): the wealthiest stretch, with the Golden Bend, the spot where fifteen bridges line up, and views over the Amstel towards the Magere Brug. Seven stops over around 2 km.
Doable in one go: the three join up geographically. Together they come to around 8 kilometres, a full day's walking or an easy morning on a bike.
All from the outside: you need not go inside anywhere. The façades, bridges and water are the attraction in themselves, and that costs nothing.
Three routes that follow a life
These routes trace not a neighbourhood but a person, from the address where someone grew up to the place where the story ends.
Anne Frank route: starts at her family home on the Merwedeplein in the Rivierenbuurt, passes both her schools and the house of Miep Gies, and ends at the secret annex on the Prinsengracht and the statue on the Westermarkt. Six stops over around 6 km.
Johan Cruyff route: past the places from the life of the most famous footballer the city has produced, from the neighbourhood where he was born to the stadium that carries his name.
Nearly all of it is free: the routes themselves cost nothing. Only the Anne Frank and Rembrandt routes pass museums that charge admission, and even without those the walks stand complete.
Take a bike: these routes include long stretches with no stops. A hire bike gets you round in about a third of the time.
Practical matters along the way
A few things make the difference between a fine day out and a tiring one.
Everything on your phone: each route sets out what you see at every stop, with a map you can follow as you go. Put the phone in a holder if you are cycling, as holding it is illegal and costs 170 euros.
Wear sturdy shoes: the cobbles are uneven and the bridges go up and down all day.
Watch out for cyclists: the red asphalt is a carriageway. Never stand on it to take a photograph, and look both ways when crossing.
Book in advance: if a museum falls on your route, reserve a timed slot and plan the walk around it. At the Anne Frank House booking is the only way in at all.
Pick your moment: early morning the canals are quiet and the light falls beautifully on the water. Between eleven and four the centre is at its most crowded.
Bring a raincoat: the weather turns quickly and an umbrella is little use in the wind. Check the weather forecast beforehand.
More on your own terms
Besides these routes there are other ways to explore the city independently.
Free audio tours: three walks you follow on your own phone, covering Dam Square, the Rokin and the Nes. See our page of free sights.
On foot through the city: our page on walking covers the finest districts to explore, from the Jordaan to the Plantage quarter.
On two wheels: everything about hire, traffic rules and routes beyond the city is on our page about cycling.
Out of town: the surrounding area offers dunes, polders and the beach, all within an hour's journey.
